I have one now. It's from a Kwaka bike, but I can step-drill the centre hole to suit if needs be.
I have a crank bolt socket etc. Does anyone have any tips on how to attach this thing, please? Bearing in mind that I'll be using the crank bolt to turn the engine, I suppose. I want to set a new TDC timing mark, accurately, to use my advancing timing gun on.
Thanks, you brainboxes!
Timing Degree Wheel
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Timing Degree Wheel
Bolt it to the end of the crank shaft. You will be removing the damper to do this, as you will need to remove the front cover to expose the timing gear. A damper puller will speed removal.
Also, make sure that your damper has not slipped, moving the timing indicator. Also, Minis and Spridgets have different timing marks. I use the MED Engineering damper and pulley, mount my own timing pointer and notch the pulley to put the timing mark in a position that is more easily read than the scale beneath the engine. 0
Use a coat hanger or a piece of welding rod to fashion a pointer. You can attach it anywhere to the front of the engine, but make sure that you can see where it falls on the degree wheel clearly and without parallax.
The real trick to using the degree wheel is to make sure that you have ACCURATELY achieved TDC for your valve timing measurements. The piston dwells at "TDC"for a couple of degrees of crank rotation, so accurately determining TDC is important when setting your cam timing, as well as your ignition timing.
Other tools you will need: TDC finder. This is a bolt or device that goes into the spark plug hole that blocks piston movement so you can rotate the engine in both directions, stop to stop, then determine half the distance in degrees, and establish an accurate TDC. There are also timing tools for motorcycles that have a sliding indicator that shows the piston movement. This is also useful, especially if the indicator can be locked to provide a positive stop.
OR... If you don't have the stop, and the cylinder head is off the engine, you can use a dial indicator to determine piston dwell for an accurate setting. Again, halve the degrees of rotation. You will need a magnetic stand for your dial indicator for both TDC determination, and cam position, taken off of the push rod of cylinder #1.
Also, make sure that your damper has not slipped, moving the timing indicator. Also, Minis and Spridgets have different timing marks. I use the MED Engineering damper and pulley, mount my own timing pointer and notch the pulley to put the timing mark in a position that is more easily read than the scale beneath the engine. 0
Use a coat hanger or a piece of welding rod to fashion a pointer. You can attach it anywhere to the front of the engine, but make sure that you can see where it falls on the degree wheel clearly and without parallax.
The real trick to using the degree wheel is to make sure that you have ACCURATELY achieved TDC for your valve timing measurements. The piston dwells at "TDC"for a couple of degrees of crank rotation, so accurately determining TDC is important when setting your cam timing, as well as your ignition timing.
Other tools you will need: TDC finder. This is a bolt or device that goes into the spark plug hole that blocks piston movement so you can rotate the engine in both directions, stop to stop, then determine half the distance in degrees, and establish an accurate TDC. There are also timing tools for motorcycles that have a sliding indicator that shows the piston movement. This is also useful, especially if the indicator can be locked to provide a positive stop.
OR... If you don't have the stop, and the cylinder head is off the engine, you can use a dial indicator to determine piston dwell for an accurate setting. Again, halve the degrees of rotation. You will need a magnetic stand for your dial indicator for both TDC determination, and cam position, taken off of the push rod of cylinder #1.
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jonclancy
- Posts: 944
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
Re: Timing Degree Wheel
Thanks Jan,
Seeing as I have a spare timing cover, gasket, and a small weep from that area, it's a little job that'll cover quite a a few bases.
My Ford crank pin isn't the right size (I took a punt, but it was cheap). I might just try drilling out an old spark plug and fitting a long M6 bolt - I've got a couple knocking around.
Seeing as I have a spare timing cover, gasket, and a small weep from that area, it's a little job that'll cover quite a a few bases.
My Ford crank pin isn't the right size (I took a punt, but it was cheap). I might just try drilling out an old spark plug and fitting a long M6 bolt - I've got a couple knocking around.
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Timing Degree Wheel
I have used an old spark plug on several machines. including my MV Agusta 750S.
The wheel doesn't have to fit over the crank nose. The wheel may have to be rotated to match your pointer (after you have found TDC), so any way that you can adapt the wheel to your crank bolt works.
My degree wheels come with a few different machined centers for precisely that use.
The wheel doesn't have to fit over the crank nose. The wheel may have to be rotated to match your pointer (after you have found TDC), so any way that you can adapt the wheel to your crank bolt works.
My degree wheels come with a few different machined centers for precisely that use.
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erictharg
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm
Re: Timing Degree Wheel
I opened up the bore of the disc so it would just nip up behind the pulley bolt using a suitable pile of washers. Has worked so far....