Setting Camber
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seajayare
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:28 pm
- Location: Wiltshire, UK
Setting Camber
Looking at the suspension I can't see an easy way to set the camber angle. It looks like I'll have to disconnect the top wishbone at the top bush, screw the "fork" in or out , re-assemble put the car back on the floor and re-measure and repeat as required. Have I missed something?
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Setting Camber
No, you have it. , It is really very easy to adjust. if you let the tire just touch the garage floor, it is easy to take out the top bolt, make your change to the fork, and re check your settings. For radial tires, -1~ -1.5º camber. For bias ply Dunlop racing tires, -.5 ~ -1.0º Toe at 1/16" IN (total). The caster is not adjustable, but, check it anyway. usually around 4.5~5º or so. Equal on both sides. Try to get the settings symmetrical. 'Same on both sides, with the driver in the car.
Make sure that you roll the car back and forth a couple of times to prior to taking the measurements (camber FIRST), unless you have caster/camber plates that rotate and slide, or a pair flat plates liberally greased. Even then, bounce the chassis, and roll it. Don't be afraid to stand on the frame ends and bounce. It is better if you leave the bushings loose (no more than 5 lb.ft. torque, as this will ensure that the settings are repeatable, and that the front end works.
Also, make sure that the driver's weight is in the seat before taking any alignment measurements. This is important to get accurate camber and toe readings.
If you weigh around 150 ~170lbs, set up the car with about 1/2" more ride height on the drivers side, unladen/static. With the driver in the seat, this should give equal ride heights left to right (make any adjustment necessary to get even left to right ride height with the driver in the car), and a close weight differential between the left front and right rear/lert rear, right front. About 51~52%, which can be adjusted out if necessary when checking corner weights prior to doing the alignment (if you put the battery in the rear, opposite the driver).
Make sure that you roll the car back and forth a couple of times to prior to taking the measurements (camber FIRST), unless you have caster/camber plates that rotate and slide, or a pair flat plates liberally greased. Even then, bounce the chassis, and roll it. Don't be afraid to stand on the frame ends and bounce. It is better if you leave the bushings loose (no more than 5 lb.ft. torque, as this will ensure that the settings are repeatable, and that the front end works.
Also, make sure that the driver's weight is in the seat before taking any alignment measurements. This is important to get accurate camber and toe readings.
If you weigh around 150 ~170lbs, set up the car with about 1/2" more ride height on the drivers side, unladen/static. With the driver in the seat, this should give equal ride heights left to right (make any adjustment necessary to get even left to right ride height with the driver in the car), and a close weight differential between the left front and right rear/lert rear, right front. About 51~52%, which can be adjusted out if necessary when checking corner weights prior to doing the alignment (if you put the battery in the rear, opposite the driver).