Neat! I might just get one on the shelf for when the Lucas alt inevitably fails again.
Just as an aside, that non-Lucas dizzy cap looks VERY broad across the top. What’s the clearance like to the fibreglass footwell panel? If it’s a problem, get a Lucas one. And my top tip when it comes to Lucas electrical items is to trawl Fleabay for NOS. All of the modern Lucas kit is made in the Far East and is of very poor quality. But there is so much new old-stock available out there. Made in Birmingham in the ‘60s and ‘70s from much better materials and to much be higher tolerances. Search this forum for my polemic on rotor arms.......
My 11 build
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 882
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: My 11 build
The cap is the same one I used on my Pertronix equipped RHD car. It is the best fit.
I did have to move a brake line, but that really depends on your own decisions when you installed the brake lines. That there was so little clearance was a bit of a surprise to me with the RHD chassis. Anyway, that side exit cap is the best solution I found, and it came with my Pertronix distributor.
You can get rid of the old alternator mount, and, if you install an oil cooler, that oil line down the side of the engine. This will give you an unrestricted access to the distributor hold down bolt for easy timing, installation and removal. You can carry a pre timed distributor as a spare and change it with a 7/16 wrench in about two minutes.
I did have to move a brake line, but that really depends on your own decisions when you installed the brake lines. That there was so little clearance was a bit of a surprise to me with the RHD chassis. Anyway, that side exit cap is the best solution I found, and it came with my Pertronix distributor.
You can get rid of the old alternator mount, and, if you install an oil cooler, that oil line down the side of the engine. This will give you an unrestricted access to the distributor hold down bolt for easy timing, installation and removal. You can carry a pre timed distributor as a spare and change it with a 7/16 wrench in about two minutes.
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jonclancy
- Posts: 993
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
The distributor and cap is one of the 123ignition units. Hopefully it will help with the engine maintenance.
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
A couple more bits added. The radiator and the indicator repeaters.
[attachment=2]radiator.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=1]repeater.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]repeater2.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=2]radiator.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=1]repeater.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]repeater2.jpg[/attachment]
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 882
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: My 11 build
I have been mounting the radiators slanted to the rear as the air flow goes in the front and out the bottom of the car, as did the original 11.
This may be complicated with the cooling system hoses, but the results are worth it. Make sure that your hose runs are within the chassis, and not below.
You should fabricate a duct to keep the air flow through the radiator, and make sure that there is a floor in front of the radiator, regardless of which way you mount it.
And don't use the supplied fan mounting. Keep the fan behind the radiator as a "puller". This will ensure cool running.
This may be complicated with the cooling system hoses, but the results are worth it. Make sure that your hose runs are within the chassis, and not below.
You should fabricate a duct to keep the air flow through the radiator, and make sure that there is a floor in front of the radiator, regardless of which way you mount it.
And don't use the supplied fan mounting. Keep the fan behind the radiator as a "puller". This will ensure cool running.
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
and a question for you all..
With hubcap or with out hubcap?
[attachment=1]wheel and hub.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]wheel no hub.jpg[/attachment]
With hubcap or with out hubcap?
[attachment=1]wheel and hub.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]wheel no hub.jpg[/attachment]
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jonclancy
- Posts: 993
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
Re: My 11 build
With. I think. Reminds me of early Lotus Seven...
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bobwhittaker
- Posts: 197
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:42 pm
Re: My 11 build
WHEELS
Back in1966 my Series Two Seven had Triumph Herald wheels complete with hubcaps .
Back in1966 my Series Two Seven had Triumph Herald wheels complete with hubcaps .
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 882
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: My 11 build
Without.
My early series 1 Lotus 7 had 15" wire wheels, from the factory.
Do those tires fit under the bodywork up front?
Also, drill the middle of the anti sway bar block for a zerk fitting so that you can lube the bar. It will lap in nicely and not squeak or grind.
This is easy, and really helps the front end and servicing down the road.
My early series 1 Lotus 7 had 15" wire wheels, from the factory.
Do those tires fit under the bodywork up front?
Also, drill the middle of the anti sway bar block for a zerk fitting so that you can lube the bar. It will lap in nicely and not squeak or grind.
This is easy, and really helps the front end and servicing down the road.