Westfield Elevens

Went the same as you have in the end, just to be safe.

Can't wait. He says he'll source the throttle linkage for me as well, so it should just be plug and play...

stephen

All ordered and on it's way....cheers again Matthew.

stephen

Sigh....

Manifold arrived and...errr...it's twisted. Won't fit on the studs

Some judicious filing to the half-holes on the manifold and it fits the studs nicely now. Just needed a touch of fettling.

Right, so, fuel line attached, throttle cable attached, plugged up the vacuum advance on the distributor....

Eventually it got going. Sort of. Doesn't really run, but it goes for long enough that there's obviously not a fundamental problem. Lots of pumping of the pedal before priming the fuel, then it catches straight away, revs flare all over the place for a few seconds and eventually it dies. It might just be cold. Webers look very complicated. Any clues as to what might be worth gently adjusting first? I've figured out how to take up the slack in the throttle cable, but, other than that it's really not obvious right now....

stephen

Have you attached the choke cable? My car won't start from cold without using the choke, plus I assume I need the accelerator pump changing as I have trouble pulling away. I plan to take the car to see Peter Baldwin at Wilshers Garage to get it set up properly on the rolling road sometime in the not too distant future.

OOH! one thing has just sprung to mind. Have you used the rubber O ring vibration damping seals and not bolted the carb directly to the manifold? Otherwise you will get fuel frothing in the float chambers.

Hi - yes, I did use the O-rings and eventually I found the choke, which did help.

I think I understand the problem actually; i've now got it idling nicely, but as soon as i apply revs it starts misfiring horribly, banging in the exhaust and occasionally blowing back through the carbs as well. As soon as I try to drive it, the revs die.

When I had SUs I bought an Aldon dizzy with vaccum advance. There's no vacuum feed now with the Weber (unless I'm missing it), so i've blanked off the vacuum pipe but, of course, my ignition is not advancing, so I guess the timing goes kaput as soon as I move away from idle.
I guess I need a new dizzy.....

stephen

Ah ha, there is a solution for the vacuum advance.

I am using Megajolt with a MAP sensor for ignition management so I too needed a balanced vacuum signal. My solution was to fit a couple of Scottoiler spigots (item #: RM-150125 I think) into the rear two M5(?) holes currently blanked off (part 48 on the Exploded Weber diagram). These I sent into a vacuum reservoir, currently made from plastic plumbing pipe, then a single balanced vacuum signal outlet to the MAP sensor. It seems to work for me so I shouldn't expect any problems adapting it for a Dizzy. Alternatively you could tap the manifold instead of using the existing holes in the Weber.

Well....it's not that.

Going round in circles at the moment. Car idles well, but as soon as I apply any throttle it misfires and dies. I've taken the carb off the manifold and re-seated it, checking the gaps across the rubber grommet things are about right. I'll have to look at the manifold again this evening and check that it's not leaking somewhere around the head join. After that I guess it's take the carb to pieces and see how they've jetted it. All a bit odd really..

s

Slightly off topic but:

My car seems to be loosing more oil than previously via (I think) the crank seal. I have looked at the Peter May crankseal kits but whilst looking into this I had a thought. The original SU install had the crank breather directed into the inlet which would have been a vacuum, whilst now the Weber is installed I have fitted a catch tank which will be at atmospheric. The Vizard book says that the A series works best at negative crankcase pressure so perhaps I need to use his breather solution? I'll give it a whirl and let you know. This may apply especially to Midget engines with the duff scroll appology for an crank oil seal.

My last rebuild I got the lower half of the scroll seal off centre so it pissed oil out. I though a good fix would be the Peter May seal kit. It's a real pain to fit correctly and after 50 miles had worn the knife edge off the seal and then it leaked - lots. Problem is getting the seal to run on the parallel portion of the flywheel mounting diameter instead of the tapered bit adjacent to it. So, I stripped it again and carefully re-assebled the scroll seal (centered it with bits of feeler gauge), plus plumbed my catch tank into the breather port on my carb creating some slight pressure reduction in the crankcase. Works a treat - no leaks.
I have the oil seal kit spare and you're welcome to give it a go, but unless your crank has become so badly worn that it's worn off the scroll it should work fine in conjunction with a negative pressure breather set up.