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Re: My 11 build

Posted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 3:57 pm
by zei220
Next problem...... the alternator i have is too large to fit in the available space. What are you guys using?

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 3:04 pm
by bobwhittaker
ALTERNATOR
I bought and fitted a replacement 1st of March . Lucas 18ACR Righthand GXE2206 From Midland Sports and Classic
Ebay classified ad price £43.50 plus £5.95 carriage . Ebay code 123392555872 Ample room all round

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 5:30 pm
by Splat
Yes. I have to ask: what on Earth are you using as an alternator. Although Jan will be along later to tell you to fit a Jap CR somethingorother (they're very small and light with a good output, but do require a little fabrication) any standard Lucas-type alternator fits with plenty of room to spare.

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 7:31 pm
by Westfield 129
Try this: https://www.amazon.com/Ishikawajima-021 ... 0BDRH9NFG8

This is a World Power Systems 12189N (That's the part number I have in my own car, and used for the search) Nippon Denso equivalent. Extraordinarily reliable, which my 5 Lucas alternators were not. Each Lucas had a catastrophic failure of the rectifier when it came unsoldered and vibrated apart. I replaced several rectifiers, alternators, both new and remanufactured. No luck. The little alternator fixed all my problems.
This unit is small, powerful and has been solid for more than 7 years.

Yes, there is a little bit of fabrication, in that the mount tab that attached to the water pump will have to be thinned by about 3/16" or so. You can do this with a flat file. I used a rotary file, then finished with a flat file.

The lower mount is done with a left/right hand thread rod, and a pair of left/right hand thread rod ends and a pair of jam nuts. Adjustment is easy (you can use your fingers) and nothing can slip.
This also eliminates the back alternator bracket from the engine block and the through bolt. The short alternator also cleans up the cold side of the engine, making maintenance a little easier. The little alternator also saves a Kg or so.

Wiring is simple, with a terminal for the battery line, and a 2 wire plug for the switch wire and the warning light.

Prices for this type of alternator run from about $75 USD to about $135 USD, or about half the price of the ND equivalent. I bought the least expensive, and have been perfectly happy with the performance.

There is a clearance problem with the distributor. You can use a side exit cap, and you may have to move a brake line for additional clearance. I had to move the brake line after I had the engine in.

As for the transmission housing...
I have pictures of both the distributor clearance problem, alternator and the transmission housing modification, but the yahoo sites are not showing all the available images, nor do they allow downloads at this time. I will get the images for you from my own archive.

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 7:32 pm
by Westfield 129
Try this: https://www.amazon.com/Ishikawajima-021 ... 0BDRH9NFG8

This is a World Power Systems 12189N (That's the part number I have in my own car, and used for the search) Nippon Denso equivalent. Extraordinarily reliable, which my 5 Lucas alternators were not. Each Lucas had a catastrophic failure of the rectifier when it came unsoldered and vibrated apart. I replaced several rectifiers, alternators, both new and remanufactured. No luck. The little alternator fixed all my problems.
This unit is small, powerful and has been solid for more than 7 years.

Yes, there is a little bit of fabrication, in that the mount tab that attached to the water pump will have to be thinned by about 3/16" or so. You can do this with a flat file. I used a rotary file, then finished with a flat file.

The lower mount is done with a left/right hand thread rod, and a pair of left/right hand thread rod ends and a pair of jam nuts. Adjustment is easy (you can use your fingers) and nothing can slip.
This also eliminates the back alternator bracket from the engine block and the through bolt. The short alternator also cleans up the cold side of the engine, making maintenance a little easier. The little alternator also saves a Kg or so.

Wiring is simple, with a terminal for the battery line, and a 2 wire plug for the switch wire and the warning light.

Prices for this type of alternator run from about $75 USD to about $135 USD, or about half the price of the ND equivalent. I bought the least expensive, and have been perfectly happy with the performance.

There is a clearance problem with the distributor. You can use a side exit cap, and you may have to move a brake line for additional clearance. I had to move the brake line after I had the engine in.

As for the transmission housing...
I have pictures of both the distributor clearance problem, alternator and the transmission housing modification, but the yahoo sites are not showing all the available images, nor do they allow downloads at this time. I will get the images for you from my own archive.

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 8:14 pm
by jonjh1964
I fitted a 40A Denso, even though it's small it was a tight fit because of where the main 12V output stud is located

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:04 pm
by Westfield 129
I didn't have any problems with battery terminal clearance with the alternator I listed. I believe that it is an ND 40 equivalent. From your picture, you don't seem to have a problem as well. 'Looks just like mine.
There is at least an inch of space for the installation, maybe more. Plenty. This was a lot easier to fit in the chassis than the old Lucas and required about 15 minutes to do the hand filing. With the turnbuckle, it is very easy to do the belt adjustment as the tension can be set with fingers (left and right hand threaded hex and rod ends) and then the jam nuts are tightened. I recall that I ordered my hex adjuster, jam nuts and the rod ends from a UK race supplier at a very reasonable cost.

I did most of my images at high resolution for publication, so none of my archived images will fit here... Hopefully, Yahoo will get their servers fixed.
My libraries at three Yahoo sites are really messed up.

I have been connecting the old heater outlet to the coolant surge tank. This purges the cylinder head of air bubbles, improves flow, reduces the temps of the rear cylinders, and lowered the cylinder head temp (and the coolant temp) by about 10~15F. This is easy to do. I tap the cylinder head to the appropriate NPT thread, and use the adapter that best works with your header tank. The small screw holes can be capped with the bolts used to hold on the cover, sealed with Hondabond or Yamabond or whatever your favorite sealer is.

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 9:42 am
by zei220
I've ordered a 40amp Denso, hopefully should be delivered and fitted by Wednesday.

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 10:56 am
by jonjh1964
Zei220 - you will probably need to shim or remove some material in order to get the belt aligned, if the later there's plenty of material in the alternator to allow for it. You can see on mine where I removed a few mm from the upper mount. I used one of these as the adjuster https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-C20 ... SwYlJW6oqR if you look at the description you just need to pick one that has the right length and end fittings for your alternator, again you might have to remove some material along it's length or from the alternator casing to get the full adjustment.

Re: My 11 build

Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:29 am
by zei220
Managed to get the alternator fitted this morning. lots of room now. As usual you guys were right about having to fettle the mounts to get the pulleys to line up. Thank you.

[attachment=0]alternator.jpg[/attachment]