My 11 build
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
Thank you Simon, PM sent.
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
Making a little progress today, fitted the coil and starter solenoid..... and trying to make headway on the wiring. I also ordered an inlet manifold for a Sprite from Maniflow after deciding to go with single 1 3/4" SU. They tell me that the manifold is almost straight with the inlet ports so should give clearance for the carb.
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jonjh1964
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:10 pm
Re: My 11 build
After trying various mini inlet manifolds I got the Maniflow one and had no problem fitting a 1 3/4" SU Carb under the bonnet
- Attachments
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
Looks good, what is the air filter you’re using?
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jonjh1964
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:10 pm
Re: My 11 build
ITG supplied by MED Engineering along with a stub stack.
https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/ancil ... ack-system
https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/ancil ... ack-system
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
Thanks, and ordered.
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: My 11 build
On the wiring, I started first on my old Lotus 7 Series 1 by rewiring it using a Lotus 7 Series 2 wiring scheme, along with the appropriate Lucas wire and color codes.
This was at first mystifying, but after a couple of hours of running wires from front to back, and soldering (or crimping) the terminations, I had the epiphany and was able to finish the wiring job without further reference to the schematic. The end result was perfection. No problems and a once unreliable car became a solid companion, ready at a moments notice to go anywhere.
For my W11, I purchased a Painless pro street fuse block, adding my own Lucas color coded wires. This labeled box is so simple, that the schematic was not really needed. Even the horn relay, safety flashers and traffic signals are included in this box. Just follow the labels to the component, then back to the switch and the box.
The advantage of this system is that if you do have a problem, you can see each wire, and easily trace it to the source of your problem. You don't need a schematic. All circuits are fused as well. Your current Westfield harness has nearly all the wire you need to do this setup. You can put the box under the scuttle were you can see the entire wiring layout for the instrument panel to the engine compartment.
Yes, you will need to remove the scuttle for fuse changes, but you can also use quick release slide dzus clips for 30 second scuttle removal.
Also, if you go to any of the British wiring sites that have the Lucas wire codes, you can figure out the wiring very quickly.
There is also the Westfield wiring schematic as well.
For my last build, I disassembled the Westfield supplied harness into component parts (front end, rear end, instrument panel), using the wiring and a Painless box, with some upgrades to the charging circuit to reflect the single wire alternator setup I was using. I didn't need a voltage regulator.
I also used a push button solenoid, with a British Starters modified gear drive Honda starter with its own solenoid. I installed a bridge wire so that only the solenoid on the starter did the switching, but I had the button solenoid on the firewall for wiring considerations, valve adjustments and tuning.
One more thing... If you are using roller rockers (or plan to), you may want to grind out the stiffening ribs in that alloy valve cover as the rockers will touch them slightly. Just something that I discovered on a couple of cars I built engines for. Normally, I use the standard pressed cover with an extra breather brazed on (with a baffle inside the cover) and a shortened oil filler tube.
I also mount my fuel pump as close to the fuel tank as possible (right next to it, in fact) for better feed when the tank gets low. This is important when your fuel tank is only about 5 gallons. Any interruptions will be short with a short fuel line from the tank to the pump (no more than 8").
I also use simple to replace termination at the pump so that a quick replacement is possible if the pump should fail. I did this on my W11 during the rewiring and was rewarded when the pump failed at a meet. I was able to walk across the street, pick up a new Facet pump, crimp on two connectors and plug it back in in about 10 minutes, including the walk across the street to the auto parts store to purchase the replacement pump. If you carry a replacement with you, you can pre attach the connectors for a quick change on the road should it be necessary. Since your pump is new, I suspect that you won't have a problem for many years, but... My pump was already about 15 years old when I acquired the car. It was only a matter of time...
The car is looking quite nice!
This was at first mystifying, but after a couple of hours of running wires from front to back, and soldering (or crimping) the terminations, I had the epiphany and was able to finish the wiring job without further reference to the schematic. The end result was perfection. No problems and a once unreliable car became a solid companion, ready at a moments notice to go anywhere.
For my W11, I purchased a Painless pro street fuse block, adding my own Lucas color coded wires. This labeled box is so simple, that the schematic was not really needed. Even the horn relay, safety flashers and traffic signals are included in this box. Just follow the labels to the component, then back to the switch and the box.
The advantage of this system is that if you do have a problem, you can see each wire, and easily trace it to the source of your problem. You don't need a schematic. All circuits are fused as well. Your current Westfield harness has nearly all the wire you need to do this setup. You can put the box under the scuttle were you can see the entire wiring layout for the instrument panel to the engine compartment.
Yes, you will need to remove the scuttle for fuse changes, but you can also use quick release slide dzus clips for 30 second scuttle removal.
Also, if you go to any of the British wiring sites that have the Lucas wire codes, you can figure out the wiring very quickly.
There is also the Westfield wiring schematic as well.
For my last build, I disassembled the Westfield supplied harness into component parts (front end, rear end, instrument panel), using the wiring and a Painless box, with some upgrades to the charging circuit to reflect the single wire alternator setup I was using. I didn't need a voltage regulator.
I also used a push button solenoid, with a British Starters modified gear drive Honda starter with its own solenoid. I installed a bridge wire so that only the solenoid on the starter did the switching, but I had the button solenoid on the firewall for wiring considerations, valve adjustments and tuning.
One more thing... If you are using roller rockers (or plan to), you may want to grind out the stiffening ribs in that alloy valve cover as the rockers will touch them slightly. Just something that I discovered on a couple of cars I built engines for. Normally, I use the standard pressed cover with an extra breather brazed on (with a baffle inside the cover) and a shortened oil filler tube.
I also mount my fuel pump as close to the fuel tank as possible (right next to it, in fact) for better feed when the tank gets low. This is important when your fuel tank is only about 5 gallons. Any interruptions will be short with a short fuel line from the tank to the pump (no more than 8").
I also use simple to replace termination at the pump so that a quick replacement is possible if the pump should fail. I did this on my W11 during the rewiring and was rewarded when the pump failed at a meet. I was able to walk across the street, pick up a new Facet pump, crimp on two connectors and plug it back in in about 10 minutes, including the walk across the street to the auto parts store to purchase the replacement pump. If you carry a replacement with you, you can pre attach the connectors for a quick change on the road should it be necessary. Since your pump is new, I suspect that you won't have a problem for many years, but... My pump was already about 15 years old when I acquired the car. It was only a matter of time...
The car is looking quite nice!
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zei220
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:48 am
- Location: U.K.
Re: My 11 build
Jan wrote
"For my last build, I disassembled the Westfield supplied harness into component parts (front end, rear end, instrument panel), using the wiring and a Painless box, with some upgrades to the charging circuit to reflect the single wire alternator setup I was using. I didn't need a voltage regulator."
That's where I am now. I did contact Westfield but they only produce the one loom and its for a dynamo and regulator.
"For my last build, I disassembled the Westfield supplied harness into component parts (front end, rear end, instrument panel), using the wiring and a Painless box, with some upgrades to the charging circuit to reflect the single wire alternator setup I was using. I didn't need a voltage regulator."
That's where I am now. I did contact Westfield but they only produce the one loom and its for a dynamo and regulator.
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: My 11 build
Not really a problem if you use the right fuse block.
But if you are looking for a scheme to use, try one from a late Spright with an alternator, or search the internet for a scheme that has the conversion from generator to alternator for a Spridget. Moss has that, I believe. VERY simple conversion. You will need a single wire from the switched power to the alternator, and a single wire from the alternator to the battery (solenoid). If you want to install a cut off switch, both wires will run through the switch if you get one specifically for alternators.
But the easiest thing to do is to get one of the Painless fuses boxes, the Pro street or race box is a good one. A little expensive, but the horn relays, turn signals and the emergency flashers are already wired within the box. All you need is the Lucas wire code and run the wires to the various components to the box and the switches. This setup is very reliable and easy to work with, especially if you have to trouble shoot something.
These have one power wire to the fuse box from your battery/solenoid, with a 50 amp maxi fuse.
If you use one of the small alternators, such as that for a Kubota fork lift. Simple mounting and adjustment.
But if you are looking for a scheme to use, try one from a late Spright with an alternator, or search the internet for a scheme that has the conversion from generator to alternator for a Spridget. Moss has that, I believe. VERY simple conversion. You will need a single wire from the switched power to the alternator, and a single wire from the alternator to the battery (solenoid). If you want to install a cut off switch, both wires will run through the switch if you get one specifically for alternators.
But the easiest thing to do is to get one of the Painless fuses boxes, the Pro street or race box is a good one. A little expensive, but the horn relays, turn signals and the emergency flashers are already wired within the box. All you need is the Lucas wire code and run the wires to the various components to the box and the switches. This setup is very reliable and easy to work with, especially if you have to trouble shoot something.
These have one power wire to the fuse box from your battery/solenoid, with a 50 amp maxi fuse.
If you use one of the small alternators, such as that for a Kubota fork lift. Simple mounting and adjustment.
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jonjh1964
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:10 pm
Re: My 11 build
These are the dynamo - alternator instructions I got from Westfield:
'The loom is designed to run a Lucas dynamo and separate regulator. If the donor engine is using an Alternator then once again a small modification is needed.
At the regulator wiring connections, join together the thin Brown/Yellow and the thin Brown/Green. Also join the 3 large brown wires, solder joints are the best form of connection for this. The Black and the Brown/Blue wire can be insulated and tied up. Do not join these wires. At the Dynamo end the thin Brown/Green can be connected to the D+ terminal on the Alternator (the small terminal) and then the other 2 terminals should be wired to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This should be done using the correct rated wiring and plug kit. The Brown/Blue wire is not used.'
On the advice of others, I'm also planning to fit a voltage regulator to the fuel gauge as part of my winter changes as it over reads despite the sensor being correctly calibrated prior to installation.
'The loom is designed to run a Lucas dynamo and separate regulator. If the donor engine is using an Alternator then once again a small modification is needed.
At the regulator wiring connections, join together the thin Brown/Yellow and the thin Brown/Green. Also join the 3 large brown wires, solder joints are the best form of connection for this. The Black and the Brown/Blue wire can be insulated and tied up. Do not join these wires. At the Dynamo end the thin Brown/Green can be connected to the D+ terminal on the Alternator (the small terminal) and then the other 2 terminals should be wired to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This should be done using the correct rated wiring and plug kit. The Brown/Blue wire is not used.'
On the advice of others, I'm also planning to fit a voltage regulator to the fuel gauge as part of my winter changes as it over reads despite the sensor being correctly calibrated prior to installation.