Accident damage

[sgrant]

So, with the car back at the paintshop, I've been looking at options for a bonnet stay, since the current "balance everything on the indicator pods" is an arrangement that scares me every time I do any work on the car, and I find the bonnet bulky and a pain to remove completely and store in a stable manner each time.

The current suggestion from the man who will be respraying the car (and is great at anything GRP related) is to get a lightweight, hollow, aluminium tube and store it on a couple of clips across the scuttle (ie, one clip somewhere around where the chassis plate is and the other one near the expansion tank bottle) and then make a receptor for the underside of the bonnet, which he will be very good at fashioning.

Any reason why not? Or anyone got a better idea?

stephen

[adamwilkinson]

Sounds reasonable, i'd also suggest some kind of strap to stop the bonnet opening too far in the event of a gust of wind.

[erictharg]

I have a loose "stick" that lies in the passenger footwell with a bolt through one end that hooks through a bracket on the scuttle and a "U"shaped ally bracket on the other that hooks over the edge of the bonnet. It holds the bonnet firmly enough.

[Westfield 129]

Probably more bonnets have been damaged through the use of a "prop" than any other reason. Every W11 I have worked on with a "prop" has damage all over the tops of the bonnet's wings, a result of falling off the car in a forward direction.

The prop, if you use one, has to be positively attached at both the bonnet and the chassis, otherwise, the bonnet will fall forward, and off the car. This really does scar the paint and pulls on the wiring. Not a good thing.

I use a simple piece of string with loops at both ends. This attaches to my Terry Spring hook on the chassis, and to the Terry Spring on the bonnet. It holds the bonnet open, just past center.
Sure, the bonnet can blow closed, which does no harm at all. It does not allow the bonnet to blow over and off the car. I have been using this for many years, even on the road side, with large trucks breezing by. No problems.

Some of the owners will glass in a metal loop and use a snap clip at the bonnet and the scuttle to secure the string.

Best part about using a string or parachute cord hood retention is that it is easy to store, doesn't rattle, and it's very cheap, requiring minimal fabrication, if any at all.

[Chris Todd]

"Some of the owners will glass in a metal loop and use a snap clip at the bonnet and the scuttle to secure the string"

A double ended leather dog lead for me, easy to clip on, will not stretch and small enough to keep in the car

[Westfield 129]

Excellent. However, here in the US, we have no double ended dogs... That must present a problem walking...

Something else I have to put on my list to pick up next time I get over. Maybe I can get Gavin to put one in my next parts order. I hope that that it doesn't chew on the new leather steering wheel.

[Chris Todd]

[jonclancy]

TonyL posted his solution to the bonnet stay quandary here:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/wes ... ssage/1824

START Extract:

Re: Bonnet strut

I purchased a telescopic locking metal broom handle (brand 'Vileda')
in a sale at Lidl. So cheap, I won't tell you the price...

I then fabricated a simple 'U' bracket to sit on the main front-
to-rear passenger-side chassis rail at the bulkhead end of the rail.
One end of the telescopic tube is attached to the bracket. In the
fully closed position, the telescopic tube just sits snugly above the
rail top, with a spring clip at the front to hold it in place.

At the other end of the tube I fitted a universal joint which
engages in a bracket Sikaflexed to the bonnet (hood). This allows
the tube to be rotated and locked in any bonnet position without
removing the stay from the bracket. I use an R clip to lock the
universal to the bracket to avoid any risk of the bonnet removing
itself...

This is not as complex as it may seem - the whole job was less than a
day, plus Sikaflex drying time. So far, works perfectly. It is not
the lightest solution, but form and function are reasonably elegant.

Rgds - Tony Lincoln

ps - I have a spare telescopic tube if anybody in the UK is
interested.

I am also working on a solution to the hated Dzus fasteners. This
involves the use of stainless overcentre catches, but completely
hidden so that the front and rear clamshells have no visible means of
restraint. More details later if there is any interest..

END Extract.

HTH

Jon

[Westfield 129]

I have fixed the problem of Dzus using Terry Springs. Especially good as they give when the bonnet or rear shell is bumped, which prevents any damage to the fiberglass, but occasionally requires replacing a Terry Spring for a few quid.

Securing the scuttle, I use the original firewall mounted dzus, as they are easy to get to, and simple Dzus slide catches replacing the bolts inside. Quick, easy, and the cost is about £4 for everything.

[LA 11 builder]

I think Jon's point is that he has found a method of securing the bonnet that has no visible means of restraint. I would like to hear more, I would really like to see pictures too. Is this retention method easier to work with than the Dzus fasteners with their need for perfect alignment?