It reads fine. "Zero Wedge" is when you have 50% of the weight on the diagonal wheels. Left front to right rear. This puts 50% of the weight on each side of the car. With the car on the scales. the weight on the left front/right rear, should equal 50% of the total vehicle weight with the driver installed. This helps greatly in getting the same steering response entering left and right hand corners. Anyway, it will be impossible to get equal weights at the left front, right front, or right rear, left rear with a driver in the car. However, diagonal weights can add up to 50%, keep your ride height correct, and that works quite well. This method of tuning the corner weights will give you the best balance front to rear, and left to right.
When I do a static setup of the chassis, unladen, I usually add 1/4" to the ride height front and rear, with an additional 1/2" on the driver's side. Once the driver is in the car, I can trim the chassis, and set the corner weights on the scales. With a 170 lb driver, I can usually get the proper setup within 1% vehicle weight, on the first try. I do the setup with 3/4 full fuel tank, but with only 30 lbs of fuel available, 8 lbs is not much of a difference.
With the driver in the car, it should sit level, left to right. Set the suspension camber and toe with the driver in place. Note that to set any ride height or spring/corner weight, it is imperative that the front anti sway bar (if fitted) be disconnected. Re connect the anti sway bar after the setup is complete. Make sure that the bar is connected with the driver in place, with no pre load on the suspension. Take care to roll the car back and forth, as well as bouncing the suspension between adjustments. Remember, you want to maintain the correct ride height throughout the setup procedure.
Usually, when you get the ride height set properly with a driver in the car, the corner weighs will be pretty close. It will be impossible to get a left to right wheel balance (as in equal weights on the left and opposite right wheels), though. A diagonal balance is usually attainable, provided the static weight in the car is not all on the same side as the driver.
K Series replacement
-
ove487
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:59 pm
Re: K Series replacement
Hi Guys, new to the forum, so please forgive the 'late' contribution.
A K series will fit the Westfield 11 with no body changes. I did it about 2.5 years ago. Mark came to see.
On my K series (built up by Dave Andrews) I have a Pace 3 stage dry sump kit, as recommended by Dave (search via Google and you can see why he recommends this - all to do with main bearing longevity). I threw away the standard induction set up and use Jenvey throttle bodies. On the exhaust side, I had a manifold made up with the correct primary and secondary lengths for the engine tune. A side benefit was that the exhaust runs over the top of the chassis, keeping it away from the starter motor (makes it easier to get at it and avoid the common Caterham problem of cooking the starter.
A bonnet bulge was definitely not on my wish list, although the Lotus XV had one and I did think about it at one stage. I spent a huge amount of time making sure it wasn't necessary. BTW, Westfield were interested since the Midget donor is getting more difficult to source - I suspect the IVA requirements however were the real issue with regard to whether they continued to offer it or not.
Hope this helps.
A K series will fit the Westfield 11 with no body changes. I did it about 2.5 years ago. Mark came to see.
On my K series (built up by Dave Andrews) I have a Pace 3 stage dry sump kit, as recommended by Dave (search via Google and you can see why he recommends this - all to do with main bearing longevity). I threw away the standard induction set up and use Jenvey throttle bodies. On the exhaust side, I had a manifold made up with the correct primary and secondary lengths for the engine tune. A side benefit was that the exhaust runs over the top of the chassis, keeping it away from the starter motor (makes it easier to get at it and avoid the common Caterham problem of cooking the starter.
A bonnet bulge was definitely not on my wish list, although the Lotus XV had one and I did think about it at one stage. I spent a huge amount of time making sure it wasn't necessary. BTW, Westfield were interested since the Midget donor is getting more difficult to source - I suspect the IVA requirements however were the real issue with regard to whether they continued to offer it or not.
Hope this helps.
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erictharg
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm
Re: K Series replacement
Good to hear from you. Pushes the K series to the top of the list of alternatives...
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sgrant
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:44 am
Re: K Series replacement
Hi, and welcome.
That's really interesting; do tell more! Is this an EU2 or EU3 k-series? Did you have to cant it over to fit it in, did you use an Emerald, and how easy/hard was it to integrate the ECU into the Midget loom?
Assuming this is a 1.6 or 1.8 k, and you are on decent cams, with the Jenveys you must have the fastest XI out there!!
stephen
That's really interesting; do tell more! Is this an EU2 or EU3 k-series? Did you have to cant it over to fit it in, did you use an Emerald, and how easy/hard was it to integrate the ECU into the Midget loom?
Assuming this is a 1.6 or 1.8 k, and you are on decent cams, with the Jenveys you must have the fastest XI out there!!
stephen
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Markwoodbridge
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:09 pm
Re: K Series replacement
I'm sure OVE487's is by far the fastest XI out there. 200bhp should put it up there at least!
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allymally
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2011 6:20 pm
Re: K Series replacement
Hello Mark, how are you getting on with the conversion? I am very interested! I read there has been a K fitted before.
I would like to know how much of the engine is below the chassis?
I have an eleven which is not a westfield, its a lot nearer to a Lotus Eleven, it has a bonnet bulge similar to the eleven which ran a twincam FPF Climax. I did the bulge to get a CVH engine in, with nothing below the chassis a clean sheeted in underside. The bonnet bulge may not look quite as neat, but it has some advantages, It lets the heat out of the engine bay very well, adds strenght to an otherwise floppy bonnet. I have an A series in my eleven at the moment.
I have been collectiong bits together to do a K Midget, I now have two engines etc and started to think how good my eleven would be with a K installed ! pretty good I would imagine!
What gearbox are you running?
I raced the CVH with Straight cut A series box with no problems but more power would be a problem.
All the very best.
I would like to know how much of the engine is below the chassis?
I have an eleven which is not a westfield, its a lot nearer to a Lotus Eleven, it has a bonnet bulge similar to the eleven which ran a twincam FPF Climax. I did the bulge to get a CVH engine in, with nothing below the chassis a clean sheeted in underside. The bonnet bulge may not look quite as neat, but it has some advantages, It lets the heat out of the engine bay very well, adds strenght to an otherwise floppy bonnet. I have an A series in my eleven at the moment.
I have been collectiong bits together to do a K Midget, I now have two engines etc and started to think how good my eleven would be with a K installed ! pretty good I would imagine!
What gearbox are you running?
I raced the CVH with Straight cut A series box with no problems but more power would be a problem.
All the very best.
- Attachments
-
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adamwilkinson
- Posts: 187
- Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 12:17 pm
Re: K Series replacement
Is that you Malc (allymally)?
Adam! -
biggles
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:10 am
Re: K Series replacement
Allymally, very interesting car that! Quite different shape to the westy body with longer rear wing sections and it looks like some difference around the headlamp fairing too? I see from the tax disc, it's not just a track weapon. Yes v interesting! Any more pics (inc under the skin, unless you don't want your racing competitiors seeing under there 
) to share?
Biggles
) to share?Biggles
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ove487
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:59 pm
Re: K Series replacement
sgrant wrote:
> Hi, and welcome.
>
> That's really interesting; do tell more! Is this an EU2 or EU3 k-series?
> Did you have to cant it over to fit it in, did you use an Emerald, and how
> easy/hard was it to integrate the ECU into the Midget loom?
>
> Assuming this is a 1.6 or 1.8 k, and you are on decent cams, with the
> Jenveys you must have the fastest XI out there!!
>
> stephen
Stephen,
Its an EU3 engine, installed in a 'normal' position, i.e. no more canted over than in a Caterham, in fact my engine mounts are based on theirs. I think its just a few degrees from the vertical. I believe that when the engine was designed (for transverse installation) it was designed with a slight tilt.
It does just (!!) fit. If you imagine the Westfield chassis, the bell housing sits about 1/2 inch above the 'loop' at the front of the tunnel and the sump position gives about 3.5 - 4 inches of ground clearance (I'd have to measure it to be precise, so don't take this as accurate). The tightest spot is the top of the cambelt cover, which I 'adapted'. I've been thinking of building a new cam cover to give myself more room and make my adaptation prettier! This would be the only bit where I've had to 'adapt', but getting to that point is the result of lots of measuring, thinking and designing of parts, it doesn't just drop in.
It's spec is as follows; 1.8ltr, BP285H cam, DTH Jenveys, custom 4-2-1 exhaust that goes over the top of the chassis, Emerald K3 (off to Norfolk for a RR session in June), Pace 3 stage dry sump, Grey PRRT, Ali radiator, uprated Ford T9 g'box, Concentric clutch, Brise Starter, LSD.
Of course there are lots of detail issues to resolve too, coolant runs, pipework, positions for Dry sump tank, Swirl pots and 2 electric pumps, remote oil filter etc.....and it all has to be accessable to be maintained and needs to look 'right'. It was a lot of research and thinking as well as just a little fabrication and spanner wielding. The other thing to bear in mind is how you built the Westfield in the first place.....for example, the brake pipes need to run in a specific way (yes, space is that tight in places), the coolant pipework needs to miss the steering column (not easy with the PRRT and the heat of a multi-pipe manifold could be a disaster under a fibreglass bonnet. Solutions required for all this and more.
Wiring was based on a Midget loom, plus the remenants of the K series loom - much adapted of course. Not too difficult once you've figured out which bits you want / need to keep. Would be much simpler now, since Emerald can supply a pre-wired ECU plug, but you'd still need to work out the relay switching and fuses - I've basically segregatted each of the circuits which run the engine and given them all relays and fuses - overkill perhaps, but a) safe, b) it works and once done it looks nice to see a tidy block of fuses and relays with a proper circuit map. Oh and relocating the battery into the Passenger side pontoon i.e. within the wheelbase and close to the fuses / relays - I never did like the Westfield design of an unprotected supply cable running the length of the car down the inside of the tunnel (safety again) - helps with weight distribution.
Hope all this helps, a bit of a brain dump I'm afraid.
I noticed elsewhere on this forum some comments about radiator ducting and the fibreglass splash guards / wheel wells. In my build I threw away the fibreglass bits provided by Westfield and did it all in Ali; much nicer, but you have to deal with the rattles they then produce - not difficult, just time consuming, but then thats what these projects are all about isn't it. I like a good challenge, and hearing it can't be done is a red rag to me!
Not sure is photos can be loaded here, but I have some if anyone is really interested.
Julian
> Hi, and welcome.
>
> That's really interesting; do tell more! Is this an EU2 or EU3 k-series?
> Did you have to cant it over to fit it in, did you use an Emerald, and how
> easy/hard was it to integrate the ECU into the Midget loom?
>
> Assuming this is a 1.6 or 1.8 k, and you are on decent cams, with the
> Jenveys you must have the fastest XI out there!!
>
> stephen
Stephen,
Its an EU3 engine, installed in a 'normal' position, i.e. no more canted over than in a Caterham, in fact my engine mounts are based on theirs. I think its just a few degrees from the vertical. I believe that when the engine was designed (for transverse installation) it was designed with a slight tilt.
It does just (!!) fit. If you imagine the Westfield chassis, the bell housing sits about 1/2 inch above the 'loop' at the front of the tunnel and the sump position gives about 3.5 - 4 inches of ground clearance (I'd have to measure it to be precise, so don't take this as accurate). The tightest spot is the top of the cambelt cover, which I 'adapted'. I've been thinking of building a new cam cover to give myself more room and make my adaptation prettier! This would be the only bit where I've had to 'adapt', but getting to that point is the result of lots of measuring, thinking and designing of parts, it doesn't just drop in.
It's spec is as follows; 1.8ltr, BP285H cam, DTH Jenveys, custom 4-2-1 exhaust that goes over the top of the chassis, Emerald K3 (off to Norfolk for a RR session in June), Pace 3 stage dry sump, Grey PRRT, Ali radiator, uprated Ford T9 g'box, Concentric clutch, Brise Starter, LSD.
Of course there are lots of detail issues to resolve too, coolant runs, pipework, positions for Dry sump tank, Swirl pots and 2 electric pumps, remote oil filter etc.....and it all has to be accessable to be maintained and needs to look 'right'. It was a lot of research and thinking as well as just a little fabrication and spanner wielding. The other thing to bear in mind is how you built the Westfield in the first place.....for example, the brake pipes need to run in a specific way (yes, space is that tight in places), the coolant pipework needs to miss the steering column (not easy with the PRRT and the heat of a multi-pipe manifold could be a disaster under a fibreglass bonnet. Solutions required for all this and more.
Wiring was based on a Midget loom, plus the remenants of the K series loom - much adapted of course. Not too difficult once you've figured out which bits you want / need to keep. Would be much simpler now, since Emerald can supply a pre-wired ECU plug, but you'd still need to work out the relay switching and fuses - I've basically segregatted each of the circuits which run the engine and given them all relays and fuses - overkill perhaps, but a) safe, b) it works and once done it looks nice to see a tidy block of fuses and relays with a proper circuit map. Oh and relocating the battery into the Passenger side pontoon i.e. within the wheelbase and close to the fuses / relays - I never did like the Westfield design of an unprotected supply cable running the length of the car down the inside of the tunnel (safety again) - helps with weight distribution.
Hope all this helps, a bit of a brain dump I'm afraid.
I noticed elsewhere on this forum some comments about radiator ducting and the fibreglass splash guards / wheel wells. In my build I threw away the fibreglass bits provided by Westfield and did it all in Ali; much nicer, but you have to deal with the rattles they then produce - not difficult, just time consuming, but then thats what these projects are all about isn't it. I like a good challenge, and hearing it can't be done is a red rag to me!
Not sure is photos can be loaded here, but I have some if anyone is really interested.
Julian