BTW, the top builder is Huffaker Engineering. They have built dozens of SCCA winning A series engines, and have been winning championships for the last 5 decades. How much?
Well, how fast do you want to go? Bring lots of cash.
Richard Longman A-series, problem
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erictharg
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
Swiftune pretty much occupy that slot here in the UK. c.£12k for a top Historic Mini engine. Crazy. Making at least 20HP more than the original race Mini engines ever did in their day!
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Pluscat
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:36 am
- Location: Netherlands Oss
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
Well another update on my engines situation.
The engine is completely dismanteled now, crank and bearings are ok, pistons will need to be replaced. A piston ring on cylinder four had cracked, hence the lack of compression. All four pistons showed wear.
b.t.w. the bore wasn't 72mm but aprox. 74 mm, so it is a 1380.
The cast iron block can't be bored more, and a replacement is needed, found one, just have to pick it up in Coventry next week.
So here's the plan, bore the new block to a 1380, get some new forged alloy pistons, new bearings, and tappets, and copper gaskets
Put the engine together again, using the old crank, camshaft, and other oily bits from the old engine.
I would like to have a new sump, but haven't found one yet.......Guys?
This winter is going to be enjoyable, I know it.......
The engine is completely dismanteled now, crank and bearings are ok, pistons will need to be replaced. A piston ring on cylinder four had cracked, hence the lack of compression. All four pistons showed wear.
b.t.w. the bore wasn't 72mm but aprox. 74 mm, so it is a 1380.
The cast iron block can't be bored more, and a replacement is needed, found one, just have to pick it up in Coventry next week.
So here's the plan, bore the new block to a 1380, get some new forged alloy pistons, new bearings, and tappets, and copper gaskets
Put the engine together again, using the old crank, camshaft, and other oily bits from the old engine.
I would like to have a new sump, but haven't found one yet.......Guys?
This winter is going to be enjoyable, I know it.......
Last edited by Pluscat on Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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erictharg
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
If you are stuck for a sump I have a spare one from a 1.3 Marina engine somewhere in the garage. Let me know if you need it. You might also want to try Peter May - he may have one and his baffled version if worth having if you plan to drive on the track at all.
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Pluscat
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:36 am
- Location: Netherlands Oss
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
Another update on my engine.
I picked up a new block yesterday. A swift trip to the UK visiting Coventry on day one, engine pickup and a visit to Brands Hatch for the formula ford festival on day two. Enjoyable.
Charles, I'd love to get my hands on your marina sump! Mine is dented (which is not a problem) and badly scratched ( which is the problem: I think if my sump hits the tarmac a few more times is wil spring a leak, the metal has become rather thin.....).
Is your marina-sump (exactly) the same as a MG-midgetsump?
I picked up a new block yesterday. A swift trip to the UK visiting Coventry on day one, engine pickup and a visit to Brands Hatch for the formula ford festival on day two. Enjoyable.
Charles, I'd love to get my hands on your marina sump! Mine is dented (which is not a problem) and badly scratched ( which is the problem: I think if my sump hits the tarmac a few more times is wil spring a leak, the metal has become rather thin.....).
Is your marina-sump (exactly) the same as a MG-midgetsump?
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erictharg
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
Looks identical to the Midget item. Can't imagine BL tooling up for a different design if they could help it! I'll try to dig it out and check it is the same, and in good condition. Will let you know.
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Pluscat
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:36 am
- Location: Netherlands Oss
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
Thanks Charles! I hope it is a good one. I wil send you a PM soon.
I saw a cross-cut of a 949 cc A-series at the transport museum in Coventry last week-end, sump looked exacly the same as mine.
When one takes an engine appart, one discovers that there are more things wrong.......
One tappet was badly pitted. A close inspection of the camshaft revealed that the cam on that tappet was badly worn.
A new camshaft is needed as are new tappets.
I have ordered all the parts I need for the rebuild (forged pistons, all bearings, camshaft, tappets and gaskets) today.
I saw a cross-cut of a 949 cc A-series at the transport museum in Coventry last week-end, sump looked exacly the same as mine.
When one takes an engine appart, one discovers that there are more things wrong.......
One tappet was badly pitted. A close inspection of the camshaft revealed that the cam on that tappet was badly worn.
A new camshaft is needed as are new tappets.
I have ordered all the parts I need for the rebuild (forged pistons, all bearings, camshaft, tappets and gaskets) today.
Last edited by Pluscat on Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
If the block is offset bored to 73.5mm (1380 bore), then you can still bore to 74mm (1400 bore) and get one more use out of the block.
While it costs more to offset bore the block, this will usually offset the cost of buying and boring another block. It's getting harder to find good 1275 blocks here in the US.
While it costs more to offset bore the block, this will usually offset the cost of buying and boring another block. It's getting harder to find good 1275 blocks here in the US.
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Pluscat
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:36 am
- Location: Netherlands Oss
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
I decided to go for a 1380 again. Why? Cause the parts are easier to obtain.
73.5 pistons and 73.5 headgaskets are easy to find, 74's not. (Omega forged 73.5 7cc dished)
Secondly I found a 'new' block. (I'm keeping the old one too). I even concidered going back to 1275, but I like the extra power a 1380 gives.
I decided on a cam with a powerrange from 2000 to 7000 rpm.
The alternative was 3000 to 8000 rpm, but I like a bit of power in the bottom range and I don't intend to rev the engine over 6500/7000 rpm.
As far as costs for this rebuild project my estimate is 2200 euro (including the trip to the UK), not bad I think...
73.5 pistons and 73.5 headgaskets are easy to find, 74's not. (Omega forged 73.5 7cc dished)
Secondly I found a 'new' block. (I'm keeping the old one too). I even concidered going back to 1275, but I like the extra power a 1380 gives.
I decided on a cam with a powerrange from 2000 to 7000 rpm.
The alternative was 3000 to 8000 rpm, but I like a bit of power in the bottom range and I don't intend to rev the engine over 6500/7000 rpm.
As far as costs for this rebuild project my estimate is 2200 euro (including the trip to the UK), not bad I think...
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Pluscat
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:36 am
- Location: Netherlands Oss
Re: Richard Longman A-series, problem
Got my engine back, but I think I have a problem with the conrods:
The A-series has 4 cilinders, cilinder number 1 is on the front of the engine, cilinder number 4 on the rear, right?
The conrods and conrodcaps are also numbered 1 to 4.
Am I right to think that conrod number 1 should go in cilinder number 1, rod 2 in cilinder 2 etc.?
When I got my engine back testerday,
conrod 1 is in cilinder 4,
conrod 2 is in cilinder 3,
conrod 3 is in cilinder 2,
conrod 4 is in cilinder 1.
I have to admit that I don't know in what order the conrods were when the engine was taken apart.
So did the guy at the machineshop make a mistake?
I guess the conrods are numbered for a good reason, so should I take the engine appart and change it?
Or could I just leave it as it is as new barings are used anyway....
The A-series has 4 cilinders, cilinder number 1 is on the front of the engine, cilinder number 4 on the rear, right?
The conrods and conrodcaps are also numbered 1 to 4.
Am I right to think that conrod number 1 should go in cilinder number 1, rod 2 in cilinder 2 etc.?
When I got my engine back testerday,
conrod 1 is in cilinder 4,
conrod 2 is in cilinder 3,
conrod 3 is in cilinder 2,
conrod 4 is in cilinder 1.
I have to admit that I don't know in what order the conrods were when the engine was taken apart.
So did the guy at the machineshop make a mistake?
I guess the conrods are numbered for a good reason, so should I take the engine appart and change it?
Or could I just leave it as it is as new barings are used anyway....