Ribcase Gearbox Oil?

[adamwilkinson]

Just make a new timing mark in an accessible position and then use a timing gun as normal.

[jonclancy]

Hi Adam,

Can you elaborate for the benefit of the thick, please??

I assume that you mark a point on the front case as the No 1 is at TDC. Then, using the spacing from the timing case, mark 4, 8, 12 Degree points?

[adamwilkinson]

Pretty much.
All we have done is make a new mark indicating TDC on both the pulley and the timing cover. We've not marked the other positions as i cant see why you'd need them.

Our timing is usually set by our rolling road guy dialing it in whilst watching the bhp figure to get max bhp, then uses the gun to give use the figure for our notes.

Our mark is positioned top left (looking at engine from front). Make sure when you make it that you do so in an area easily accessible with timing gun.

[jonclancy]

Thanks - makes it all clear now.

I have a TDC finding device on the way (hopefully be here for early next week - weather's rubbish so the delay isn't important). I've got a spare timing cover I'll have a look at. The reason why I wanted to have the other timing marks was that I am not intending to go back to the dyno with this (twin 1 1/4" SU) set up; it's not economic.

I'm also going to check how the jets are lubricated in their housing - one of mine seems to bind a little when the choke is excercised.

[adamwilkinson]

A tdc finding device??
Surely just a long screwdriver is all that's required...

We do use a DTI for setting our timing on a new cam but then we run a vernier pulley for fine tuning of the timing.

[Westfield 129]

Finding TDC is usually done with a bolt and a degree wheel. The engine is rotated in each direction until it stops at the bolt (against the piston), then the number of degrees is halved, and the damper marked.

However, a motorcycle TDC finder, a screw in sleeve (spark plug sized) with a plunger that can be measured for height, is also useful. I have one. I imagine that the tool is 50 years old. I found it in a dumpster...

Anyway, once you have TDC, you can put a reference mark anywhere, and then mark the damper. No trick at all.

Note that your damper may have it's mark at any point, as the damper outer ring is mounted on rubber, and can slip or rotate. Also, Mini's have a different damper mark, as their timing settings are done from above. it is always a good idea to check your TDC mark if you are using a stock damper and ignition points.

I made a reference pointer from a socket head screw and a nut, then made a light notch in the damper with a file. You can see it on the Yahoo Westfield 11 site in the photo albums. Check out "The Last XI". It's accurate and easy to set the timing once you have TDC.

To get an accurate setting, get a "dial back" or "advancing" timing light. Then all you do is set the amount of advance at the timing light and use your TDC mark. That will give accurate timing and allow you to check the timing as any point you wish up to around 50 or more degrees of advance. Advancing timing lights are no longer exotic as they once were, so they can be found at reasonable prices. A simple one with a dial works just as well as a digital one with a tach.

[jonclancy]

See, these gems need to go in our WIKI!

My timing gun is not young and is simple (somewhat like the owner!) - acquired during my days of Herald/Alpine/GT6 ownership (can't remember which!!). I now see the reason for only one timing mark now if you can just dial in what setting you want and swing the dizzy to that point. So simple!!! I'll be looking for one on the 'Bay / Amazon / Pep Boys etc.

I've researched methods of using various tools etc for finding TDC. A positive piston stop seems the best way to mitigate the flat-spot in the cam and use the "two marks divided" method.

The device I was looking at works on the opening of the valve to indicate a point that you use. Here''s a vid - it's quite interesting (if you are a saddo like me!).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIuw6unKvOY

There's no sound.

This one demos the use of a piston stop and mentions a rotating mark on a harmonic balancer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD0ZRc7D ... re=related

[Westfield 129]

Ok, this is getting way too complex.

How about taking out the #1 spark plug, and rotating the engine with your thumb over the spark plug hole. If you feel compression, you are coming up on TDC. Look under the car and continue rotating the engine until you have your damper notch aligned with the TDC mark (0º). Done. I am assuming that your damper is reasonably accurate.

Why bother with the position of the valve, when what you want is the position of the crank shaft/piston at TOP DEAD CENTER?

Then, make a mark anywhere you prefer on your damper, where you can see it, and a mark on your timing cover to match. Now, you have TDC marked and you can use a timing light.

No need to purchase a tool, other than your thumb, if you don't already have one. You might need some touch up paint, or steal some of your wife's nail polish.

Take the money you saved and purchase a dial back advancing timing light. That might cost 20~25 quid. Maybe less. Then, you can set the timing accurately, to the degree.

If you want to get fancy, I am sure that there is a company in the UK that sells a timing tape that goes around the damper. Use your new 0º mark and you have a fully marked damper to set the timing using a standard timing light.

I would just purchase the dial back timing light. Much easier.

[jonclancy]

Yep, seen the thumb method, too. I have some gear coming, and, hopefully, a timing light later on tonight. They are around £100 here - for some reason.

Anyhow, although all off-topic, we've covered the options here WRT timing, and I'm very grateful for that! Been a while since I fiddled around with old motors and it's just scary how much past experience evaporates over time.

I'll update in a appropriate thread when I've had a bash at this.

Be much easier with my single HIF44!

Cheers guys!

Jon

[Westfield 129]

There are two types of advance timing lights. One just has a dial on the back. You turn it to the required advance degree and check the timing against the TDC mark.

Other, more expensive lights are digital, reading the degrees, as well as RPM. This is very useful in checking the advance curve, but the digital lights cost about 2X as much.

I have a digital light on my wish list, but I make do with a perfectly accurate dial unit that I have had for about 30 years.

If you can shop around, you should be able to find a good dial light for around $100 US or less. That would be around £65 or so.

If you check my Westyxiownerdriverbuilders site on Yahoo, you can see the timing pointer I made for the new engine.