Pro Tech single adjustables £200 per pair...
Say $350. Plus springs. If you get them from Pro Comp they'll ensure the right bump rebound ratio and damping range from their experience with Locost racers, negating the need for double adjustment.
loose rivets and front end alloy panels
-
erictharg
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm
-
Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: loose rivets and front end alloy panels
The Locost settings are not really optimum for the Westfield. There is nothing like having the ability to dial in the rebound setting. The Locost settings are a compromise, especially if one is working with the 15" wheels and bias ply tires, and development based on race track data. Having the double adjustables will give a far better ride and handling solution.
I have tried it both ways. Double adjustable is demonstrably better. Especially if one requires damping for the local canyons, and the local tracks. With compression and rebound adjustments, I have a damper solution for every situation, especially for our mountain roads, which are not the smooth ribbons that comprise most race tracks.
I order my dampers directly from Protech. Note that the first set supplied were to the Locost specs, and were so stiff in both compression and rebound as to be unusable, even in the very softest settings. Fortunately, the Protechs have the ability to change the center of their damping curve, and it was easy to soften the damper to where it was completely adjustable in both compression and rebound. With the double adjustable dampers, we can easily change the handling balance with a single click, or handle mid corner bumps with changes in just rebound. It becomes possible to use softer spring rates and additional compliance for increased grip and a better ride.
I have tried it both ways. Double adjustable is demonstrably better. Especially if one requires damping for the local canyons, and the local tracks. With compression and rebound adjustments, I have a damper solution for every situation, especially for our mountain roads, which are not the smooth ribbons that comprise most race tracks.
I order my dampers directly from Protech. Note that the first set supplied were to the Locost specs, and were so stiff in both compression and rebound as to be unusable, even in the very softest settings. Fortunately, the Protechs have the ability to change the center of their damping curve, and it was easy to soften the damper to where it was completely adjustable in both compression and rebound. With the double adjustable dampers, we can easily change the handling balance with a single click, or handle mid corner bumps with changes in just rebound. It becomes possible to use softer spring rates and additional compliance for increased grip and a better ride.
-
erictharg
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm
Re: loose rivets and front end alloy panels
As my mum used to say "it wouldn't do for us all to be the same"! Jan - I'd have double adjustables if I could afford it, but my priorities lie elsewhere.
-
Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: loose rivets and front end alloy panels
I am fortunate to be able to test lots of different parts (its part of my day job), and cost usually is not a problem. Single adjustables do work, and I have AVOs on my personal LHD car, but they are not nearly as good as the double adjustables, which I will be fitting later this year, along with my new wire wheels and Dunlops. The difference in ride and handling is profound.
Some parts just work better, and while a set of single adjustable dampers may work quite well, they would have to be custom valved, costing time and money that most of the cottage industry damper manufacturers can't afford. If you have the skill and time to do a custom set of valves that give the correct compromise between rebound and compression off a single adjuster, there is no need for a double adjustable (hell, if you get it right, you don't even need a single adjustable). You can save a lot of money, while burning up a lot of time, driving, removing and dismantling the dampers, then re mounting them again and driving over a variety of conditions (I do this for a living, too). With the way most W11s are driven, it is likely that the owner will pass, or the car will pass to another owner before the project is completed. A few miles of driving on the right road will allow the double adjustable to be dialed in.
Most of the information that I have found on the internet about parts and their performance have been, well, unreliable. Most that comment on the bits and pieces have little actual experience with the parts, if they have any at all. I have used every part that I have recommended, for many, many miles, on my own cars, or on those W11s of my friends.
With performance engines costing over $5000, LSD units at $900 (plus a set of race axles at around $$800), and Dunlop race tires selling at $1300 a set, there is little that is cheap about developing a W11 into what it should (could) be. I have one sitting in the garage that has a total cost, including the labor to rebuild and refinish every donor car part, LSD, 130 HP engine, about $60K US. Figure about $45000 in parts, including the kit. And it still doesn't have the Protechs... But I suspect that it may in the near future.
The idea is to determine which parts work best, and which compromises are worth while. While some parts may be more expensive, the end result may be worth the additional expense.
Some parts just work better, and while a set of single adjustable dampers may work quite well, they would have to be custom valved, costing time and money that most of the cottage industry damper manufacturers can't afford. If you have the skill and time to do a custom set of valves that give the correct compromise between rebound and compression off a single adjuster, there is no need for a double adjustable (hell, if you get it right, you don't even need a single adjustable). You can save a lot of money, while burning up a lot of time, driving, removing and dismantling the dampers, then re mounting them again and driving over a variety of conditions (I do this for a living, too). With the way most W11s are driven, it is likely that the owner will pass, or the car will pass to another owner before the project is completed. A few miles of driving on the right road will allow the double adjustable to be dialed in.
Most of the information that I have found on the internet about parts and their performance have been, well, unreliable. Most that comment on the bits and pieces have little actual experience with the parts, if they have any at all. I have used every part that I have recommended, for many, many miles, on my own cars, or on those W11s of my friends.
With performance engines costing over $5000, LSD units at $900 (plus a set of race axles at around $$800), and Dunlop race tires selling at $1300 a set, there is little that is cheap about developing a W11 into what it should (could) be. I have one sitting in the garage that has a total cost, including the labor to rebuild and refinish every donor car part, LSD, 130 HP engine, about $60K US. Figure about $45000 in parts, including the kit. And it still doesn't have the Protechs... But I suspect that it may in the near future.
The idea is to determine which parts work best, and which compromises are worth while. While some parts may be more expensive, the end result may be worth the additional expense.