11 Dashboard

[Elva 11]

I'm going to make a new dashboard to suit my new XI (after IVA). 1.5 Aluminium, suitable for painting or covering if required.
Have access to laser cutting facility so any apertures required are no problem. Bottom formed to radius on pressbrake and top radiused over former.
While I'm doing it as a one off, it would be possible to produce more. Is anyone on here interested. You would have to mark up a drawing showing positions and sizes of any holes you require, probably referenced to the steering column hole.
No idea on price, probably about £150.
I've also done a panel 200x80 that fits between the top of the tunnel and the dash lower rail. Takes 2 52mm gauges + a 12v socket but again choice available.
Let me know.
Happy Christmas

[jonclancy]

Are you looking to produce a replica of the Lotus dash? Sounds like a great project.

[Westfield 129]

I have done a couple of Westfield/Lotus instrument panels. The material doesn't have to be too thick. The same gauge as the Westfield panel is fine. I don't bother with the curve over the top frame rail, using rivnuts and screws to attach the panel to the tubes. The top of the panel is covered by the scuttle.

Rather than going to the expense of laser cutting, I use the standard cutter dies used for aircraft panels, as they are available in the same size as the Smiths (Carebont) engine gauges. I have used a fly cutter to produce the hole for an 80mm Smiths race tach. The speedo was a little harder at 100 mm. I mount it on the passenger side, and ended up drilling a lot of holes, then cutting between them.

I went out and acquired period correct switches, including a high/dipped/sidelights/off switch.

While a dual coolant temp/oil pressure gauge is standard (mounted in front of the driver, next to the tach), I also added a fuel gauge, and a volt meter to the panel. I don't really see a need for an oil temp gauge, as the oil temp seems to follow the water temp closely (even on the hottest days exceeding 43C), especially with the cooler installed. I often install the oil temp gauge, but I have not bothered with my cars. You can see my panel in either of the Yahoo forums, under The Last XI or my photo album on WestyXIownersbuildersdrivers.

[jonclancy]

I'd opt for laser over holesaws, files and all that palaver any day!

I've even moved across to hole punches for my holes in hifi chassis due to ease of use and quality of finish. Yes, dash trim will mask all but gross errors, but...

What would be handy is for someone to find a real 11 and visit with a tape measure!

[beng4]

All 'genuine' elevens that I have seen have extra gauges, switches in different positions etc to suit the needs of the drivers over the last 50+ years, often with racing in mind. When I made the dash for my chassis I looked at several pictures of cars and cut a piece of 18 gauge to size, bent round the bottom tube using a soft mallet and then cut out the holes using either a stepper drill bit or drilling small holes round the larger hole and filing down to size. Only took a couple of evenings then coated in contact adhesive and covered it in the same material as seats, it looks quite convincing. Picture below to illustrate this arrangement, with its IVA compliant gauges, and Lucas SF4 fusebox!

Ben

[LA 11 builder]

You might want to test fit your scuttle before wrapping the dash material around the top tube of the chassis. In my case the scuttle did not fit flat on the chassis at the outside edges with the extra thickness added. I was unable to remove the gap between the scuttle and the side pod without putting too much tension on the 4 fixing screws. I wasn't worried about the screws breaking, but I was concerned about the Fiberglas.

[Westfield 129]

I had no problems fitting the dash, or cutting it. Not too many holes, anyway. Laser cutting would have cost $$$ that I wanted to put into other parts of the car, and I enjoy the fabrication, as well as immediate gratification. I did have the panel blank cut professionally, though.

I don't use fixing screws on the scuttle. I use the two dzus on the firewall, and a pair of Dzus slide clips to secure the back section of the scuttle to the chassis. Quick removal, and the clips are a positive lock. No more trying to get a wrench in there, and dealing with fasteners that can be lost. All the scuttle fasteners are captive.

I used the kit end covers, as I occasionally use this area as a cubby for a tool roll, and fix the end covers with thumb screws. All the dash fasteners are 8-32

Since I have a modern electrical system with 12 circuits, I didn't do the two fuse Lucas box on the dash.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WestyXIow ... 20&dir=asc

[bobwhittaker]

Made my own dash panel from 0.8 mm brush finished stainless steel for the main panel with a quarter round at each end in stainless to fill the scuttle at the corners.Left hand corner has a battery isolator (Battery in sponson below),right hand hand corner has ready made chromed panel (car builder solutions) with toggled over main isolator/fuel pump isolator/start button/ign warning light .Speedo/Rev counter/Combined oil and water gauges/ All switches (modern rocker) are mounted central in a one piece 6mm thick brush finished aluminium panel overlayed on the stainless dash. this puts everything central with the switches located between the tunnel top and the bottom line of the dash panel.Directly in eyeline between the top two spokes of the steering wheel are the warning lights for oil pressure and indicate L/R .All very understated and far more ergonomic than the original .It is all that I want,I am not trying to create and it will never be a " Tool Room Copy " of the original .

[bobwhittaker]

SPONSONS Left and RIght, have made access to these for waterproof bagged storage with cut outs covered with 1.5 mm thick aluminum plates approx 30 cm X 15 cm secured via "rivnuts".Obviously lefthand side is over the silencer so some thought as to what is stored there is needed. Bob Whittaker

[Westfield 129]

I used 10-32 metal thumb screws and riv nuts to secure the end panels for the dash, making a couple of useful cubbys. One of my W11s is LHD, and I have no problems with storing anything in the area beneath the scuttle.

A previous owner filled the side sections with foam, so putting anything in there impossible for the moment. When I take the car apart late this year for the full cosmetic restoration, I will live the nightmare of taking all that stuff out, while trying to save the side skins. I may increase the size of the fuel tank once that is done. I suspect that I can get another gallon or two, perhaps another 60~80 miles of range. While the silencer is beneath the alloy panel, there is air space, and air flow. Generally, this area wont get too hot. However, if you are worried, KoolMat silicone/fiberglass insulation will easily keep the heat out, and can be glued in on the inside of the side sections above the exhaust. The stuff is good enough that you could transport ice and beer in there.