Small Alternator
Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 6:09 pm
FYI:
The alternator number for the small, forklift style alternator is ND 18504. This number will lead you to the much less expensive copies that cost around $80 new. I have been using both Chinese copies and the original ND produced 18504, and have found all to be excellent so far as performance and longevity. BIG difference in price, though. Chinese copy is about 1/3rd the price, works just as well, so far as I can tell.
There is an album on the Westyxiownersbuildersdrivers site that covers the modification that aligns the alternator with the crank shaft damper/pulley. This works for both the standard unit, as well as the racing unit from MED, and the Aussie racing damper. I will try to expand this over the weekend to include the full installation.
The alternator mounting hole will require drilling, as well as the mount tab on the water pump. There is no back bracket, as required for the larger Suzuki or Lucas alternator.
I drill and tap the lower mount tab of the alternator to match fractional hardware. I hate to bring two sets of tools to the car when I have to work on it.
Making the lower mount turnbuckle is pretty easy, and requires a pair of inexpensive rod ends in LH and RH threads. Use hex material for the connecting tube and it becomes very easy to adjust the tension with fingers, or with a 1/2" spanner, and a couple of jam nuts. I will try to get some pictures of the entire installation with the lower turnbuckle bracket.
Wiring is also simple, using a three wire scheme. The alternator plug is a standard part, available from any auto electrical supply or rebuilder. One wire to the battery (alternator side terminal), one to the switch, one to the indicator light (back plug).
There are also "one wire" versions available, which have only the indicator light and the battery leads.
This all results in about a 3KG weight reduction, and a much cleaner cold side of the engine, with the elimination of one alternator bracket, and an alternator less than half the size. Adjustment of the belt tension can be done without a pry bar, and may require only fingers to set the tension. Jam nuts fix the adjustment. I have run this setup for more than 15,000 miles, on a very old water pump. No problems, and the belts stay properly tensioned. It doesn't seem to mind being attached to the vibrosonic BMC A series, and doesn't mind being twisted to 7000 RPM. Of course there are reduction drive pulleys available, and you can put the thing on a switch as well, for that little extra bit of HP without alternator drag...
Main Battery Cut Off Switch for Racing: Remember that when you use an alternator, install an alternator inclusive battery main cutoff switch if you need one. This will cut the alternator and the battery power, ensuring that the thing turns off, and that the alternator is not damaged by a voltage surge.
The alternator number for the small, forklift style alternator is ND 18504. This number will lead you to the much less expensive copies that cost around $80 new. I have been using both Chinese copies and the original ND produced 18504, and have found all to be excellent so far as performance and longevity. BIG difference in price, though. Chinese copy is about 1/3rd the price, works just as well, so far as I can tell.
There is an album on the Westyxiownersbuildersdrivers site that covers the modification that aligns the alternator with the crank shaft damper/pulley. This works for both the standard unit, as well as the racing unit from MED, and the Aussie racing damper. I will try to expand this over the weekend to include the full installation.
The alternator mounting hole will require drilling, as well as the mount tab on the water pump. There is no back bracket, as required for the larger Suzuki or Lucas alternator.
I drill and tap the lower mount tab of the alternator to match fractional hardware. I hate to bring two sets of tools to the car when I have to work on it.
Making the lower mount turnbuckle is pretty easy, and requires a pair of inexpensive rod ends in LH and RH threads. Use hex material for the connecting tube and it becomes very easy to adjust the tension with fingers, or with a 1/2" spanner, and a couple of jam nuts. I will try to get some pictures of the entire installation with the lower turnbuckle bracket.
Wiring is also simple, using a three wire scheme. The alternator plug is a standard part, available from any auto electrical supply or rebuilder. One wire to the battery (alternator side terminal), one to the switch, one to the indicator light (back plug).
There are also "one wire" versions available, which have only the indicator light and the battery leads.
This all results in about a 3KG weight reduction, and a much cleaner cold side of the engine, with the elimination of one alternator bracket, and an alternator less than half the size. Adjustment of the belt tension can be done without a pry bar, and may require only fingers to set the tension. Jam nuts fix the adjustment. I have run this setup for more than 15,000 miles, on a very old water pump. No problems, and the belts stay properly tensioned. It doesn't seem to mind being attached to the vibrosonic BMC A series, and doesn't mind being twisted to 7000 RPM. Of course there are reduction drive pulleys available, and you can put the thing on a switch as well, for that little extra bit of HP without alternator drag...
Main Battery Cut Off Switch for Racing: Remember that when you use an alternator, install an alternator inclusive battery main cutoff switch if you need one. This will cut the alternator and the battery power, ensuring that the thing turns off, and that the alternator is not damaged by a voltage surge.