Front wheel bearings

[Splat]

This sounds like a facetious question! It isn't.

I'll need to replace my front wheel bearings soon. I don't intend to go down the taper-roller route. I've used pattern kits from Moss in the past. £19.96 for both bearings and a seal. Why should I consider paying about three times more for SKF (I'm aware of their heritage; just this Saturday I noted one of their bearings in a WW1 era Bentley aero-engine at Old Warden.)

I'll pay the price if someone can convince me that it's worth paying.

[Westfield 129]

The significant difference is the braking. It becomes consistent, for years. There is no more lateral run out, and no more pad knock back. The pedal is consistent, every time. The pedal becomes firm, linear and precise.

That difference in brake feel is well worth the price, and you will likely NEVER have to replace them.

Even if you think that the braking is fine, you will be amazed what a properly installed set of taper bearings will do for brake feel, and confidence.

My early car had horrible brake feel, and I replaced every part of the system in an effort to get some precision into the system. Nothing worked, until I tossed a new set of ball bearings and installed as set of taper rollers. The improvement was profound. I have since installed the bearings on 4 other W11s, with the same improvements in brake feel and performance.

Of course, they will have to be properly shimmed into place, but this is not difficult at all, and doesn't take long to do.

Westfields have a history of pretty horrible brake pedal feel, from the early single master cars to the later twin master cylinder set up. The problem is the wheel bearings. Change them, and you will feel a benefit. Its a pretty big one. Easily worth the price.

[Splat]

So, back to my question. As I don't intend to go to tapered roller bearings, why should I be shelling (ho, ho!) out almost three times as much for SKF over a pattern kit?

[LA 11 builder]

Just speaking offhand, but since the exact same size bearing and race can be obtained in many different grades of metal and thus quality, perhaps the pattern parts are not the best available? Find out the exact part number of the pattern part and then call your local bearing supply shop and ask them......

[jonclancy]

In short cos I'm mobile and just lost my detailed post??!!?!??? It's about the face adjusted bearings. MG and Minor forums list part nos. The OE RHP were in the QH packs that are now NLA. But the SKF parts were the cheaper of the two face adjusted offerings

If The MGB Hive do supply the correct spec bearings and not gash pattern ones, then they could be a more economic choice

[Splat]

Bullet bitten. They were almost exactly 3 times the price of pattern so I'm expecting at least a 10mph increase in Vmax, Jon.

[jonclancy]

I can guarantee 10mph at the very least. Costin's beautifully efficient design, and valve float, will see you right.

[erictharg]

So, to recap this rather long thread:

- If you buy the correct spec OE design front wheel bearings, and install them correctly, you will have no problems in 99% of applications (including racing). Sources include Moss, MGB Hive and Peter May. Avoid generic motor factors or bearing stockists, unless they can show the bearings are the face adjusted design.

Happy motoring!

[jonclancy]

Yep - but do ask about face adjustment. I did read some USA-based posters complaining that their (major) supplier was, allegedly, punting out generic kits.

I have just come off the phone to a UK supplier who confirmed that their bearings had a "thrust" side, but couldn't tell me specifically if these were face-adjusted, or by whom they were made. I didn't ask what the angular contact was. I was told that their plain-boxed kits have been fitted without problems, unless the bearing has been fitted back to front.

If I had the time and inclination, I'd buy a set to fit and see, but Rockingham is not that long away and I have yet to receive my SKFs in the post.

[jonclancy]

I've been looking at a couple of my workshop manuals (period and Haynes) to get a head-start on the bearing change procedure. All looks straightforward, but any helpful tips on pressing/drifting the new bearings in will be gratefully received.

Ta!