Westfield Elevens

You do know that if the damper's threads are clean and lubricated, all you have to do is jack the car and rotate the springs. The collars should rotate as well .

You can unlock the lower ring with a punch and a hammer if you don't have a wrench.

I didn't, but that is an excellent tip. Thanks Jan!

I don't even know where my trolley jack is!

A little penetrating spray like WD 40 or Maltby's goes a long way to cleaning and lubricating the threads and the spring seats. This makes the setting really easy.

You don't need a wrench but dampers (the suspension) should be fully extended. Jack the car so that both ends of the axle are fully extended. This ensures that most of the compression is off the springs, making the increase in ride height easier.

Also, wear work gloves... You don't want to cut a hand on the spring collars. They usually have sharp edges. You will need to grab the adjustment collar, and the spring.

Check the ride height first. If the car is unladen (no driver) you will want about 1/2 inch more ride height on the driver's side as you have on the passenger's side. This will usually keep the corner weights and the diagonal weight within a couple of %.

You will have to re adjust the front toe (tracking) after you make the adjustment in ride height or the steering might be a bit different in response. It doesn't take much difference in ride height to get a change in tracking. Make sure that you adjust the toe with the driver's weight in the seat, or with a driver's size substitute.

"C" SPANNERS
Universal " C " spanners which will fit a range of different size are available. They are superior to specific sized items being of forged
rather than pressed steel and are better value for money due they can be used more widely. Choose a respected manufacturer and they
will be in your tool box for years. ( So far 45 )

Well, things take a while to get done around here. Actually, to get started…

Splat dropped round a couple of C spanners yesterday (thanks, old boy!). I’m back onto this mini-project.

Thanks for your short instructions, Jan:

“Set the ride height, empty at 6” front, measured from the frame down, 7.5” empty in the rear, measured at the frame, under the axle. Subtract 3/4" from the passenger’s side measurements. You will know that you have it about right when the difference left to right, unladen, is about 3/4”~1". This should put the corner weights about right, with the diagonal LF~RR, at about 50%, or zero wedge. If you are around 180 lbs, give or take, it will be nearly spot on. The chassis should sit level, with the driver i the seat, at about 5” front, 7” rear. Any adjustment will be easy, as the setup will be very close. Clean the threads on the damper body, and if possible, grease the spring seats for easy adjustment. Done properly, you can twist the spring to make small adjustments. These are the settings that I have on my early car. My later car builds used the early car damper and spring lengths (which means that the later car rear dampers go in front… The rears replaced with longer ones, but I don’t have the precise numbers in my head. Have to look them up.”

I’m not sure why I thought my dampers were Spax. Maybe confusing them with my previous SEiW? They are black, and adjustable. I’m thinking Gaz. Mostly because of the locking grub screw, rather than the more usual locking ring.

I’ll update this thread as I get on with it. Got a new SU fuel pump, fuel pipe, and clean out HIF44 carb float bowl of the storage varnish that is currently impeding making way on the highway.